How to choose correct fabric in Fashion Design

Choosing a fabric for cloths is the most important step in Garment project. The wrong choice mean a very unsuccessful project. Fabrics are either woven or knitted, and can be made from animal fibres (wool and silk), plant fibres (cotton and linen) or man-made fibres (nylon). Knitted fabrics are more stretchy than woven ones.

There’s not space here to talk about every fabric available so I will just mention some of the main ones:

1.       Cotton – the most versatile fabric, woven cotton comes in many different weights from light-weight handkerchiefs to heavy canvas. It’s often used for shirts, skirts, trousers, jeans and bags. Fabrics like denim, moleskin and corduroy are generally made from cotton. Range of prices – often fairly cheap.

2.      Cotton jersey – knitted by machine from fine cotton thread, this fabric is what t-shirts are made of. It’s stretchy and comfortable to wear, but not as easy to sew as woven fabric.

3.      Linen – woven linen is easy to sew and comes in a variety of weights. It tends to crease a lot and is often blended with cotton. It’s main use is in making summer clothes. Can be quite expensive.

4.      Silk – shiny, slippery woven fabric often used for luxury underwear, blouses and dresses. Expensive and difficult to sew.

5.      Wool – can be knitted or woven. Woollen fabrics are often made into suits, coats and posh skirts and trousers. Often fairly expensive and tend to be dry clean.

6.      Polyester and polycotton – synthetic woven fabric, generally light-weight and crease resistant. Polycotton is a blend of polyester and cotton. Often pretty cheap.

Good fabrics for beginners

To start with, it’s a good idea to buy fabric that is easy to sew and not too expensive. Don’t be too afraid of making mistakes though – you will end up ruining some fabric at some point! However, to put off this evil moment as long as possible look for:

§  A woven fabric that will not slip or stretch to much when you sew it. This really means choosing cotton, linen or a cotton-linen blend. Avoid silk, rayon, shiny polyester and cotton jersey and other knitted fabrics.

§  Either plain colours or small prints. Avoid stripes, checks and big patterns for the moment as they are more difficult to lay out.

§  Light- to medium-weight fabrics. Avoid really heavy-weight fabrics like denim at first as they are harder to manipulate. It’s also a good idea to steer clear of bumpy or ridged fabrics like corduroy for your first attempt at sewing.

Tips for choosing correct fabric:

1- Read your pattern: Whether your pattern comes from a store or a download, it should tell you what types of fabric you should use. I recommend sticking with the fabric your pattern calls for because the designer always knows best. Lightweight fabrics, like chiffon, crepe, and linen, work best for fashion projects while heavyweight fabrics, like upholstery-weight cottons or velvets, work best in home projects. Your fabric store will likely separate the home fabrics from the fashion fabrics, so note the sections when you arrive

Calico Corners Indigo & Citron Collection with upholstery-weight cottons

 2. Look at the fabric bolt: When you find a fabric that you like, check the printed information found on or near the bolt. This will tell you the fiber content. There are four types of fibers: natural, man-made, synthetic and blends. Natural fibers include wool, silk, and cotton.  Man-made, which can be made with natural materials such as cellulose, include acrylic, rayon and acetate. Synthetic fibers are made completely from chemical sources, such as nylon, polyester and spandex. Blends are made from these three sources.

Amy Butler Honeysuckle Bloom in Rayon

3. Feel your fabric: You can tell a lot about the fabric by unwrapping it a couple feet from the bolt and holding it. Do you like how it feels on your skin — smooth like satin or nubby like corduroy? How does it drape — does it flow or just hang heavy and flat? Does the weight feel right for your project? For example, for a curtain, do you want to block light or let light in? Think about how you will use the project (how will you wear it — casually or to work? for home things, will guests be sitting on it or tossing it on the floor?) and note the comfort, durability, texture, and care of the fabric and decide if it’s right for you.

Nani Iro linen-cotton blend—“a floaty light gauze woven fabric”

4. Know your skill level. Some fabrics, like chiffons and satins, require more advanced sewing skills. If you are a beginner, I suggest starting out with light to medium-weight cottons. Cotton is a durable fabric, so it won’t snag in the machine like some other fabrics can without the right know-how. It’s inexpensive, so if you make a mistake you won’t be out of a lot of money. Plus, it can come in loads of fun prints, as I’ve shown here, which will inspire you to want to sew.

FreeSpirit Fabrics Notting Hill Collection, Lightweight Cotton

5. Consider print: When you’re choosing a print for your project, you want to consider its size, color, and direction. If you’re working on a small project, like a bag, a big floral repeat may not be your best choice. If you’re working on a dress with curves, stripes may be difficult to keep even throughout the project. Also note that the color may look differently in the lighting of the store vs. your home. Bring home a swatch first to be sure you like it in your home or on your skin, or take it outside.

Liberty of London Tana Lawn Classics, 100% Cotton

6. Review care instructions: The fabric bolt will also tell you how to care for your fabric so I suggest taking a photo of the information before you leave. Keep in mind that you should always pre-wash (according to care instructions) and press your fabric before sewing to avoid puckering after the first wash. If the fabric looks like it may require dry cleaning or gentle cleaning, you might want to consider an alternative fabric if that’s not your thing.